City of angels

I'd forgotten the crick in the neck you get in Prague from looking up all the time.

This city has more angels and saints guarding it than any other I know ...

Doorways of old houses are topped by allegorical symbols (see here for an earlier post on this)

Walking around the old town feels like walking through a series of old oil paintings ... (count the saints in the shots below)

then lower your gaze and it gets even more interesting ...

A lone musician playing in the street seems to be from another era ...

... as do the beggars on every other street who prostrate themselves uncomfortably - a new sight for me - in silent supplicant's pose ...

Are they meditating? I noticed this one was (meditatively perhaps) scratching his dog's chin!

I couldn't cross the Charles bridge without snapping at the views, always changing in different lights, but here at dusk ...

Oh trdelnik, how do I love thee ... hot off the coals, from street vendors all over the city, these cinnamony confections get rolled on sticks over an open flame, the smell irresistible ...

This one kept me going on a hike up to the castle on foot ...

... where the Battling Titans make an awe-inspiring entrance to the world's largest ancient castle, seat of the Holy Roman Emperor ...

The door to St Vitus cathedral ...

the incredible interior of St Vitus a vision of dancing suspended angels and golden jewelled stars ...

On my last day the sun came out, and so did Praguers - here enjoying the spring sunshine on the banks of the Vitava (there was music playing somewhere nearby - something you hear a lot walking around in this city) ...

and on Petrin hill, students brought their homework to the grass and park benches ...

A final image from the foot of Petrin hill, where I found David Cerny again - his Disappearing Man sculptures showing a gradually disintegrating figure of a man

Goodbye amazing Prague

Lennon vs Lenin

The Lennon wall in Prague goes back to 1980, shortly after Lennon’s murder, when young Czechs painted an image of him, along with some political graffiti and Beatles lyrics, in a recess in this garden wall that backs a 14^th century churchyard belonging to the Knights of Malta …

Western pop songs were banned at the time by Communist authorities, and expressing anti-government sentiments was a dangerous business carrying the risk of imprisonment.

But despite repeated whitewashing by the police, they never managed to keep the wall clean. It became a political focus for dissenting Prague youth, an outlet for exposing injustices ... this despite its location in this quiet, well-heeled embassy district of Prague …

French Embassy, directly opposite the Lennon Wall, and the Mala Strana canal, around the corner

Lennon marches that started to take place on December 8^th, the anniversary of John’s death, gradually became linked to Human Rights Day protests (December 10^th), the early marches developing into running battles with armed police – in a movement ironically dubbed Lennonism – up until Czechoslovakia’s Velvet Revolution.

Today the Lennon Wall has lost its counter-culture edge and original spirit as a forum for political dissidence. The graffiti is often inane, most likely to be added by the thousands of Western tourists who visit it each year to have their photo taken in front of it ...

My daily routine in Prague last week took me past the Lennon wall at least four times a day - which is how I discovered first hand the extent to which this is an evolving work in progress. Each day as I walked past, some image or piece of graffiti I remembered from the day before had been painted over, and occasionally I saw an artist in action ...

Mostly I pondered on the wall and its history right around the corner, at  the lovely Cukrkavalimonada (can you pronounce that? I can't, but it means sugar, coffee, lemonade) ...

Cukrkavalimonada, Lazenska 7, Mala Strana, Prague


... coffee and pastry being one of the best ways I can think of to put the world to rights.

Prague Spring

In Prague this week I'd hoped for warm spring weather as a break from the unrelieved awfulness that has been English weather for the last eternity. No such luck - I hit the week it all went chilly there too.
Here for a conference, my days were mostly tied up - annoying how work can get in the way of more interesting pursuits like exploring or shopping. 

Freed up in the evenings, with light until late, the tourists that throng the Charles Bridge and Old Town in large groups during the day seemed to have magically disappeared - sucked into restaurants and hotels? - and many parts of the city were strangely quiet and deserted. Where were the locals?

In the park on Kampa Island I saw a few Praguers walking their dogs ...

the only sounds coming from a group of students quietly playing guitars on the grass ...

the park benches empty, where you might sit and contemplate the nearly 700 years of history that this stone bridge (the Charles) has seen ...

The park on the bank of the Vitava river is also home to a museum (the Kampa) of central European modern art that I'd heard was worth visiting ...

though these were a bit of a surprise ...

The giant crawling babies are probably the tamest of Czech sculptor David Cerny's wacky creations. More of these slightly creepy faceless babies also crawl up the sides of Prague's television tower, and for his other weird installations see here

On the other side of the museum, Magdalena Jetelova's giant chair perches precariously on a low, narrow wall in the Vitava - a little precariously perhaps, since this is a replica of the original chair that washed away when the river flooded in 2002. 

and nearby a line of neon-yellow penguins (made of recycled plastic bottles by the Italian Cracking Art Group) marched along luminously ...

Just the start of many visual contrasts I saw in this beautiful city ...

A house, a dog and an elusive cat

Living on a wine farm is a dream, but I'd just as happily live in my friend M's small townhouse in Cape Town - a formerly ordinaryish cottage that she's converted into stylish perfection by creating open-plan spaces, raising the ceiling to a light-filled vault and bringing the courtyard-garden inside through big picture windows and doors.

This is the gorgeous creature who gets to share this space with her ...

I invited myself for lunch in M's garden ... you would too, if you knew what an artist she is in the kitchen ...

And here is one of my favourite features of Cape living - the outside shower. Hot water, mind you, no spartan freezing-your-buns-off, with all the accessories nearby for a pampered soak, as you stand naked smelling the garden under the stars. (Can you tell I used to have one of these? Sigh)

Someone else I'd been wanting to see was notably absent through lunch, but a pair of ears sticking up from a warm spot on the roof eventually gave her away ...

We lured her with a piece of biltong - that was lip-smacking good ...

Fully awake now - what else have you got for me?

Living Down South

Southern hemisphere living is about bright light and space, open-plan style, and  a life lived in the outdoors as much as in the inner spaces. These days I live this lifestyle vicariously only, through visits to friends' homes down south. While decor and home interiors are not normally what I do here, in this and the next couple of posts I'm sharing a few glimpses from happy snaps I took on my visit to Cape Town last month of homes and gardens that reflect what I love about this way of living and why I'm mad about Cape style.

Visiting special friends who live on a wine farm in the Franschhoek valley is always a treat, beginning with the sight of the long driveway up from the road ...

to these views ...

A lot of living happens outdoors around the pool ...

Comfy sofas live outside on covered porches year-round. 

the pool reflected in the verdigris metal wall lanterns

Eating happens outside too, on the terrace looking over the dam towards the mountains ...

or inside in the kitchen, where it's not about grand entertaining, but always about eating and drinking well, generosity and friendship.  

Tiny the Great Dane is not left out of the party


And it's only a short walk to the cottage on the river where we spend the night

My post title is borrowed from one of my favourite books of South African homes, now in a second version, along with some others that show the individuality and creativity that I love about these homes, on all kinds of budgets ...

Down South, Down South Two, Home Cape Town, Hot Afro